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Material options
METHOD | MATERIAL | COST ($/sf) | TIME: file prep (hr) | TIME: fab (hr) | TIME: assembly (hr) | TIME: total | MATERIAL RECYCLABILITY | |
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Vertical laser-cut topo | 1/16" grey chip (35 18x32" sheets), with basswood dowels and acrylic for water | $41 | 20.5 | 5.5 | 10.5 | 36.5 | yes | |
Vertical laser-cut topo | 4ply grey museum (35 18x32" sheets), with basswood dowels and acrylic for water | $111 | 20.5 | 5.5 | 10.5 | 36.5 | yes |
File preparation
- You'll need a file with vertical contour lines at a horizontal spacing that matches the thickness of your modeling material. Use the "contour" Rhino command to generate them from NURBS surfaces or meshes of the topography and buildings.
- If your base file does not have a surface or mesh representing the topography, you can use the RhinoTerrain plugin (available in the Software folder on Goliath) to make a 3D mesh from horizontal topography lines.
- You can either:
- Contour the mesh and the buildings together,
- Then clean up the resulting contour curves (delete building contours which are below the surface of the topography, and remove topography curves which are inside buildings).
- Then clean up the resulting contour curves (delete building contours which are below the surface of the topography, and remove topography curves which are inside buildings).
- Or, use the drape command to create a NURBS surface from the topography mesh,
- Then use the buildings to make holes in the new NURBS surface,
- And use the new NURBS surface to trim away the subterranean parts of the buildings.
- Then contour it all together. By trimming the surfaces, you avoid having to trim the contours as in option (i).
- Contour the mesh and the buildings together,
- If your base file does not have a surface or mesh representing the topography, you can use the RhinoTerrain plugin (available in the Software folder on Goliath) to make a 3D mesh from horizontal topography lines.
- For keeping a clean edge, it helps to add rods for threading the layers.
- For a large model as this one (4) square 3/16" dowel rods will work. Bass wood would work great but consider plexi rods for the areas with water.
- Space holes for them evenly along the long side of the model, cutting through all of the contours.
- For this model, we're going to add plexi for the areas that have water by nesting it between every other layer of the primary material.
- The plexi layers should also include cutouts for rods.
- The in-between layers should have a reveal in the areas where they meet water for a stronger visual effect.
- The plexi layers should also include cutouts for rods.
- Lay out each layer on laser bed-sized (18" x 32") sheets of material.
- One for water to be cut on plexi
- The rest on primary material sheets. Since the layers are being stacked, it doesn't matter which side they are cut on so you can flip and rotate layers in order to minimize material waste.
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