Material Preparation
Choosing Material
There are a wide variety of millable materials to choose from and each has its advantages and disadvantages. Depending on the particular goals for the model or part you are making, some materials will be better suited to the task than others. Both the choice of material and its preparation can have a large impact on the quality of the model produced. If you are interested in using a material other than polystyrene foam, it is a good idea to talk to lab staff beforehand to understand how it affects the process and whether it makes sense for what you are trying to do.
Commonly Milled Materials
Preparing Material
Cut Material
- If you will be using the C.R. Onsrud router and will be employing its vacuum hold-down, you can usually cut your stock material to the final size of model and not leave any extra around the edges.
- For flip-milling or making a part on the AXYZ router, include extra material around the extents of your model or part when cutting your material to size (about 2 inches in at least two opposite directions to allow for screw placement). Be sure to include this larger stock size when setting up the stock in Mastercam.
Depending on which machine is used and the geometry of the part, it may be necessary to secure the material to the router table with screws. In this case, it is best to plan for extra material around the area that is to be milled. The finished product can be later removed with an additional milling operation or with another method in the wood shop.
As routers and many of the shop machines are limited in the depth they can cut, it's generally best to cut material to size before gluing it up into a thicker block.
Flatten Material
In general, it is necessary for at least one face of your material to be absolutely flat in order to secure it to the machine and mill it. Most often, this is the bottom face. For low-density soft materials like foam, there is some flexibility with this as the material may be able to be held flat by the machine or other fastening devices. Depending on the machine you are using, the options available are different. Consult a TA to better understand the options for your particular material and geometry.
Some general pointers:
- Depending on the material you are using, you may have to flatten the material in multiple steps, including before the material is cut to size and after gluing up a larger block. This is especially true when gluing up hardwood. Consult wood shop staff about the best approach.
- To reduce warping (low dimensional stability) in the extruded blue polystyrene foam, the top and bottom faces of the blue foam can be sanded to relieve surface tension. The white expanded polystyrene foam is less prone to warping.
- When using vacuum for hold-down (most jobs on the C.R. Onsrud router) it is especially important that there not be any large voids on the bottom of the material that lead to its edge as this would compromise the vacuum seal and the part would not be securely held.
- Keep in mind that hardwood is a natural product of our friends, the trees. It will change in size and shape with slight changes in humidity and as moisture from within it moves in and out. Due to this, it can be rather difficult (and sometimes impossible) for even experienced wood workers to prepare hardwood stock so that it lies flat and remains flat after being cut.
Glue Material
In general, two different types of glues are used to create larger blocks of material from sheets, wood glue for wood-based products, and expanding polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue) for foam. Regardless of the glue or material type, keep the following in mind:
- Allow enough time for the adhesive to dry completely before milling.
- Use adequate amounts of glue and expect to see squeeze out between layers. No squeeze out means you did not use enough glue.
- Adhesive that is not dried or cured can cause damage to the cutting tool and machine, and can also result in a damaged model.
- Be sure to clamp all material to achieve a good bond between layers.
- Be sure to clean surfaces that will be glued such that they are free of dust, wax, and oils.
- Always follow the directions on the glue bottle.
- Always consult the MSDS for the glue you are using.
- Wood Glue:
- Check the label for the specific glue's working time. Some will allow only 5 minutes to put materials together and clamp, others 20 minutes, etc. A longer working time is probably better than a shorter one, especially for large parts, or parts that will be made of several layers.
- If wood glue dries before the part is clamped, the part may delaminate during the milling process as wood glue will not bond to dried wood glue. If there is dried wood glue on a surface, it will need to be removed prior to gluing.
- Some wood surfaces may require sanding or planing.
- Gorilla Glue:
- Gorilla glue is most often used with polystyrene foam, but can be used with other materials as well.
- It requires 24 hours to fully cure.
- This adhesive cures rather than dries, and requires water to be present for the reaction to occur. Both surfaces to be glued should be misted with water to aid the curing process.
- Gorilla glue expands as it cures, so be sure to sufficiently clamp your material.
- Gorilla glue can also be used to mount a single layer of foam to a more rigid material such as MDF or plywood to create a more stable part.
Clamp Material
To ensure a clean-looking and continuous bond between materials, it is necessary to adequately clamp and/or weight your work while the glue is drying or curing. Some adhesives expand when curing, separating the material with a large, low density glue line. If not done properly, a laminated stack of plywood can fly apart on the mill, wasting time and money, and increasing hazard. Talk to Burton or a woodshop TA about how to do properly clamp the material you are using.
Pressure must be applied to the edges as well as the center of the material. To accomplish this, there are several strategies:
- sandbags or heavy weighted items may be placed in the center of the work (see image below)
- long pieces of plywoodwood may be laid across the material on edge across and clamped on either end to more evenly distribute the load across the face of the material (see image below)
- the vacuum clamp may be used for parts that will fit within it
- deep-throated cam clamps may be used for some smaller parts, where the depth of the clamp can reach the center of the material from the edge
(Make a better image/photo of this)
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